"My designs, conceptually strong and primarily custom-made, are intended to convey a message."
Interview with Marie Vandewiele
Meet jewelry designer Marie Vandewiele. Her designs are conceptually strong and often inspired by personal experiences and passions such as club culture. Marie's work focuses not only on aesthetics, but also on conveying powerful messages.
You can discover Marie's jewelry in our exhibition Fashion Moves. As part of the expo, MAD had a talk with her about her sources of inspiration, her creative process and her connection to nightlife.
Can you tell a little bit more about yourself and your career as a jewelry designer? What inspired you to take this path?
"During my studies in interior design in Ghent, I discovered my passion for crafts. I graduated with a focus on furniture and design, where we had workshops to learn how to work with a variety of materials. Working with metal fascinated me, and I became interested in creating objects with precious metals."
"After a trip through Eastern Europe where I had time to reflect on which direction I wanted to take, I decided to pursue a course in jewelry and goldsmithing. Having already formed a clear design vision during my studies at KASK, I sought out a more technical education, which I found at Syntra in Kortrijk, an intensive one-year day course. This program was exactly what I was looking for: highly focused on technique and offering the opportunity to learn rapidly. Soon after, I decided to invest in my own studio, convinced that I wanted to further develop myself in this field."
"Upon graduating during the Covid period, it was very difficult to find work, which led me to become self-employed fairly quickly. This initial period was a journey to discover my identity as a designer. Ultimately, I realized that I didn't want to limit myself or be linked to a specific style. My jewelry should not only be aesthetically appealing but also convey a concept or message that is valuable to me."
"My goal is to make a powerful impact with a small, fragile object."
Can you explain your creative process when designing a new piece of jewelry?
“My concepts arise in a very natural way. My mind is always active, which leads me to come up with new ideas frequently. A concept can stem from something I've read or seen, a place I've been, people I've met, or a certain feeling."
"Once I have developed that idea in my mind, I start writing, sketching, making collages, or creating an initial prototype. Then, I proceed to work on the object or jewelry piece in silver"
Where do you get your inspiration for your designs?
“My inspiration comes from things I am passionate about. I draw inspiration from events in my daily life that resonate with me. For example, the club scene inspires me tremendously. I find it very inspiring to be in a place where the scenography is just right, where the sound, the lights, and the people all contribute to a highly energetic entity. In a club, you can encounter people who are very different, but through the music and mindset, a sense of connection is formed. Dancing connects me with others in a way that is not often experienced in daily life."
How do you hope to contribute to the discussion and empowerment of individuals with your designs that provide physical protection against transgressive behavior?
"For me, it goes beyond just the discussion; I want to make it clear that I no longer tolerate this, enough is enough. Multiple times in my life, I have experienced situations where I was intimidated, touched inappropriately, assaulted, just like many others. It feels like a necessity for me to do something about it."
"I designed a knuckleduster with keys attached to it. This knuckleduster was the final form of my 'Armor collection'. Clenching keys between your fingers is a defense mechanism that many people are familiar with, which immediately adds a symbolic meaning to this object. The keys I used are the actual keys that I carry with me. I also designed a jewel that you wear on your lips with spikes attached to it. This jewel serves as a symbolic armor against unwanted kisses and words."
In addition, you also have a necklace that you exhibit in the Fashion Moves exhibition inspired on the club culture, can you tell a little more about this piece?
"Dancing has been a way for me to release my energy since I was young. I started classical ballet at the Conservatory in Bruges from a young age. As I grew older and started attending parties, I realized how much I enjoyed dancing all night long. This led me to delve deeper into music and discover which scenes and clubs I liked. Through the club culture, I met countless fantastic and inspiring people, some of whom are still among my closest circle of friends."
"I wanted to capture these hypnotically dancing bodies in clubs for a long time. I wanted to convey the feeling, to make the viewer feel what it's like to enter such a place and feel the energy pulsating, to capture that immense accumulation of energy. Initially, I wanted to take pictures of people in a club wearing my jewelry, but ultimately, it turned into inspiration for designing a necklace. I invited 8 inspiring dancers, each dancing alone in the studio to a track of their choice for a few minutes. From these images, I created stills, from which I took the outlines to form the links of this necklace. Each dancer is a link in this chain, and each link is connected in a different way. Together, they form a fluid entity. An 'Ode to dancing'."
What do you hope people feel or experience when they wear your jewelry?
"I aim to create something deeply personal or connected to valuable memories. My goal is to make a powerful impact with a small, fragile object, which makes it even more challenging. Jewelry items are often worn for a lifetime, carrying many memories with them. My designs, conceptually strong and primarily custom-made, are intended to convey a message - something that is meaningful to both myself and the person for whom I create it."